Rhinebeck restaurant offers many delights
By Lori Pierce Abendschein
For the Poughkeepsie Journal
Rhinebeck's Le Petit Bistro is small, intimate and charming. The pine walls and wooden lanterns are part of its appeal and the lovely artwork hanging on the walls -- a gift from a longtime local patron -- is a telltale sign of a neighborhood's love for this village restaurant.
It is a place where you can bring good friends and family to celebrate a special occasion or just enjoy an evening out. Colorful anemones
decorate white linen tabletops and cozy banquettes line the walls. Tucked in the back is an equally attractive bar with a modest number of stools.
The Croziers first opened the restaurant in 1985, with Jean-Paul as the chef and Yvonne, who delighted guests, in the dining room.
Present owner Dan Bleen worked as a front-of-the-house host. When the Croziers
retired three years ago, Bleen bought the business and has continued on in the same great style and tradition as the Croziers.
Bleen retained the menu, with its offering of French classics such as the half smoked trout and Frog's Legs Provencale, and
added a few new dishes representative of classic bistro fare. Joseph Dalu, formerly of the Old Chatham Sheepherder's Inn, is in the
kitchen of the Bistro, cooking and presenting food with passion and flair. Bleen and his wife Susan work
in the front of the house, delighting customers just as in the past.
Service is discrete and professional. Plates are removed, water glasses refilled and crisp, warm rolls are replaced one right after the other.
Bleen introduces the evening's blackboard specials with mouth-watering descriptions of each item, making ordering far from facile .
Carrot Soup flawless
First came a Roasted Vegetable and Goat Cheese Terrine ($7.95), a striking presentation of roasted and thinly sliced vegetables and tangy
goat cheese, served with the very first Hudson Valley arugula of the season.
Carrot Soup ($3.75) was smooth and pure, flawless and rich in flavor. An appetizer of tender Seared Scallops ($7.95) was one of my
favorites, laced with a balsamic reduction and just enough to stimulate the appetite and forewarn of the riches to come.
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All entrees are served with a fresh mesclun mix salad tossed with a delicate mustard vinaigrette that refreshed our palates in preparation for the main course.
A classic preparation of Tuna Nicoise ($14.95) was grilled to perfection and topped with a tapenade using green olives.
Poulet ($16.95) was as excellent as it was uncomplicated, accompanied by an herbed jus. From the crisp skin to the tender meat inside,
Roasted Half Duckling ($17.95) was every bit as good as we anticipated with a pleasantly sweet lingonberry sauce.
We also chose to try the Soft-Shell Crabs ($19.95), an evening special prepared simply with butter and lemon. These were supreme and not
one piece of evidence remained on the plate when they were gone.
Le Petit Bistro's wine list is impressive and made up of superb offerings in both full and demi bottles and by the glass. We enjoyed a
Trimbach Riesling ($26), which seemed to match well with our entree choices.
As we had finished our wine halfway through our meals, Bleen brought to our attention the availability of half bottles if we desired. Like all things on the menu at le Petit Bistro, you want to try them all for the fear that you might miss out, if you don't.
Wouldn't change a thing
After receiving enticing descriptions of the evening's desserts, we were sure that we did not want to miss out on rich vanilla ice cream with fresh blueberries and raspberries ($5); a satiny smooth creme brule ($4.50); creamy New York-style cheesecake ($5); and a crisp meringue
shell filled with deliciously rich chocolate ice cream and surrounded by a scattering of fresh raspberries ($5).
Dining at Le Petit Bistro is an experience, one that leaves you enchanted, inextricably well cared for and completely satisfied.
This is one spot where I wouldn't change a thing.
The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews, and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Lori Pierce Abendschein is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and a member of the International Foodservice
Editorial Council.
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